No no, what I meant is the new regulator to stator plug has a loose connection going into the plug. It's the 3 phase wire plug that likes to melt, not a fan of using plugs after having previous issues and its a chunky plug so its quite tight under the tank anyway. Forget about the speed sensor, this is a different plug on the bike So I'm thinking to avoid an issue down the line to just remove the plug completely before I go any further and avoid that whole melted plug issue that many of us have had between the regulator and stator. Just wanted anyone's views on a good route as I hate soldering and am quite bad at it, so would using the crimp connectors where you insert the wire at either end, crimp it down then use a heat gun to shrink it down before putting shrink wrap over the top to protect it all.
Spade terminals rely on the points of contact to conduct the load, so if you have a loose spade terminal the points of contact will probably be quite small & the flow of the load will be impeded, hence there is resistance at that point which creates the heat (melting). Crimps can connect well, but again rely on there being plenty of contact at all interfaces. Loose or badly fitted crimps can still fail for precisely the same reasons as loose or badly fitted spade connectors. Solder joints, if done well, are connecting the whole wire to the whole wire, so are inherently less prone to creating flow resistance. They are also a PITA if it is a location that occasionally needs to be disconnected & reconnected. The only person who knows what's best for you to do Stephen, is you.
I went all out with my spannering today and... Put the gorgeous new (to me) Saddlemen seat that @White sorted me out with on the Daytona. Then crawled out of the garage as quickly as possible before I died of heatstroke in there without even sitting on it.
That is a relatively high current wire, I would either use a monster connector with an amp rating well in excess of the stator output or crimp with a properly fitting element. Solder is probably also OK, but the joint area should be well supported, which is probably true for any connection. I had melted stator connectors on the bike soon after I bought it and replaced all the wiring with 14awg and the monster connector route. Should be a thread on here but can't search.
That's my problem as well, I want to work on the bike but my garage is over 40 degrees. Always wanted a saddleman seat, they're lovely Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk
Yeah, I've gone the soldering route before and I'm no expert so I won't do it again, it wasn't a pretty joint, plus with the area its in and being prone to vibration it would need to be perfect. I'm quite happy with using the crimp connectors being that I can push the wires through to meet on the inside with each other then crimp it down tight before I shrink the connector and then wrap it.
Managed to get round to removing the stator to regulator plug, size of the thing Went the crimp connector route, lost a couple that failed the tug test, then lost a few more because I forgot to the put the shrink wrap tubing in place before putting the connector on. Silly me, but all three are now done, don't think they look too bad and they are all certainly tight and not moving. Lets hope they hold
I never knew quite how much I wanted one until I saw one for sale. Please don't make me go back in the garage. I'm not sure I'll survive a second foray in there while it's this hot.
Update on the bike. I should add I did test the stator before I did the direct wire, just to be sure and it showed low resistance between the three wires, barely registered which is what it should do Biked started almost straight away and the battery was reading a nice healthy 14.4 at idle, up from the previous readings that were below 14 and at one point down to 13.5. Under load the battery didn't dip so I am pretty happy its now reading much more consistently in that area. Ran the bike fully up to temp, switched it off, counted to ten then turned it back on, everything primed, pushed the starter and the bike fired straight back without any cranking, it's never done that before, let it run a bit more then repeated the off and on to start it back up, three times in a row it fired straight back up without a problem. It did however have a tiny fit on the fourth attempt, cranked a bit longer but it still started, so I feel we're heading in the correct direction. I did however notice a slight noise coming from the headers, I've heard it before and I know it means something is blowing, turns out there is a slight leak in the connection between the downpipe at the rear to lower link pipe at the bike and a potential leak in the joins on the headers, I have delkevic headers fitted so they come apart and slot back into each other same for the akrapovic exhaust, it doesn't use normal gaskets and instead uses sealant, so I think there is a leak in the sealant between the joins, makes sense since they were pulled apart during the build, nothing major but any type of leak can affect backpressure and cause idle issues so another job on the list is now taking the exhaust off, doing all the joins with sealant and putting it back together. What's annoying is I know the gaskets from the headers into the engine will need to be done, so I've ordered new ones, no point doing all the work and trying to cheap out and reuse old ones. Finally another issue appeared, loving how this is going really. The oil light came on, bike was extremely hot at this point and the idle was starting to get a bit low which I tweaked a tiny bit using the manual so its holding steady at 1200-1300, the oil light was having a bit of a disco but the moment I raised the idle it went out and didn't come back on. Being a new engine I don't think any issues are inside that or the new oil pump, this is because I had a similar issue with the oil light coming on towards the end of the old engines life in the bike, so for this one I think the oil pressure sensor is being faulty so I'll replace that with a new one which has been ordered. This was of course another sensor used from the old engine much like the gear position and speed sensors And that was my day in a boiling sauna like garage, few positives to take with the bike starting better but a few more issues to deal with. Slowly getting there with the build
Steffy was pushed out of the garage, smiled for the camera and then got pushed back into the garage. The new seat will have to wait until these crazy temperatures have subsided for me to try it out.
Bike update time. So right before I was due to take him to North Wales for a week off to see my partner he decided to be an absolute little sod. First up I changed the oil pressure sensor to cure the low oil light flickering on and off, not a bad idea since the old one was just that, very old. But the morning of leaving the revs would hit 5000rpm and go nuts, stuttering like crazy, so back to the house, wait for him to cool down and reset the adaption which thankfully he did. Took him out again, bare in mind I was meant to be on my way to Wales right now, stalling every single time I changed gear, utter bollocks, back to the house again, tank off and this time I gutted the quickshifter which is clearly not playing nice with the system, its a translogic one that plugs directly into the coils vs into the loom plug, once off I did notice that one of those coils wasn't pushed down fully, no idea why, pushed it in till I heard a click. Tank bank on, fired him straight up on the paddock stand and ran through the gears, zero issues. And what did I do for the test ride? Rode him 270 miles to Wales with zero issues, not one problem. Had a lovely day out yesterday covering another 170 miles, again no issues in him running and starting when warm/hot though he was a little sod when cold to start so I'm going to replace the coolant temp sensor as who knew that can cause cold start issues, but my god what a machine with that engine, the coastal road I got to take him down had views for miles and me grinning like a child inside the helmet. Little picture of me and my partners Street, she took him for a spin and agrees, cracking engine just not as comfortable.
Took the Daytona for a long test ride at the weekend. 260 miles from North Wales down to Elan Valley and back again. I was out with my partner on her Street for going on 12 hours, a long day but the bike and that engine is a match made in heaven. Beautiful scenery to enjoy too as we ticked off a few stamps for her brew passport at some biker cafes on route Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk
I took the Daytona for its MOT this morning. It passed with no issues, other than the mileage says that I've only done a paltry 1,000 miles since the last one. That's got to be wrong, surely?
I need to get mine done in the next couple weeks. I'll come back and compare what it's done in the last 9 months minus what it did in a single week
Had a bit of fun with the bike, decided to change the brake lines only to find out the new ones are way too long for my liking, so put the old ones back on and found my race line double banjo was leaking, so I may have torqued a bit past the recommended number, those silly copper washers that need to be crushed a bit. But managed to stop it weeping so that's all good. Then decided to adjust the lever because that's never been in a perfect position for me, so went to adjust the throttle housing and yes, in true fashion those bolts are utter cheese, gave up trying to undo them in the end, put a cloth on the top of the house and gave it a gentle 'tap' with a hammer and low and behold, the whole thing slid a bit around the bar, thumbs up moment for me. And finally waiting on the some new flag connectors for the front brake line because yet again, those things are silly, cheap and why on earth did triumph not just use thicker gauge wiring ffs.... extended the wiring out so its a bit longer and will fit the new connectors when they arrive. MOT next Friday, first one since putting in the new engine but can't see any reason why it would fail
the screws are often chewed as in lot of cases they are not phillips head but most use phillips screwdriver try get a set of jis screwdrivers j i s is japanese industrial standard for the odd ones you need them for they make a big difference
Yeah, I did find that information after I'd chewed them up, if I decide to get them out I'll replace them with better ones that are easier to get out for future use, as it sits everything is in a better position so I'll just leave it alone till winter comes around
