That is the plan, I want something different but not OTT so I need to have a good long think on how I want it sprayed. I had considered just keeping it factory colours but after seeing my partners Bonnie after its new paint job I've changed my mind. Just back from the first test ride and all I can say is "DAMN....." what a rush when I got to open it up on the first straight, the thing just took off like a rocket
Only a short ride, bike felt good, could easily notice the extra torque. Ran it through the gears, quickshifter was very smooth as was the engine braking with the slipper clutch. Brakes did feel a bit spongy so I've just redone them today with new bleed nipple's. Suspension also felt a bit off but I'm going to take it back out before I pull them apart because 9 months not riding it certainly means it'll feel weird to ride Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk
Second test ride done and under the belt. Suspension felt way better now I've adjusted it a bit more, brakes feel better too after fitting the new bleed nipple and redoing the bleed at the MC, though there is a tiny bit of oil weep, but I suspect that is purely from inside the thread, will keep an eye on it though. Quickshifter felt a bit snatchy when flicking up the gears, but I'm going to put that down to the slack in the throttle cable and not being fully 'on' it at the time, plus I need to tweak the quickshifter rod because I'm more use to having a little more angle to the peg vs what it currently has now In all, a few more minor adjustments for my own comfort and feel, but the engine is doing exactly what it should, feels nice and smooth but boy does it prefer to be on it, it'll go fine at slower speeds but you can feel it itching to be cranked open. Got home and put two fans on in the garage as its so hot here and the bike was a tad bit warm, but it didn't overheat, so all good on that side of things. Finally it started fine out of the garage, it did stall after a bit of running at idle but restarted fine and I tweaked the manual idle to hold it open a fraction more, started fine at the petrol station when I pulled in to fill up too.
I put a Street Triple 765 RS engine in a gen 2 Daytona frame this afternoon that I was previously using in a gen 3.The sump and oil pick up i changed to a gen 3 for this reason. Thing is my gen 2 exhaust system doesn’t fit because of the sump being in the way,can i fit a gen 2 sump to fix this??Do i need to change the oil pick up too?? I hope so
I'm not sure what sump was used on mine but I know it's the opposite way round so chances are that is exactly what Tony did, that and swap the oil pick up. They sell the kit so maybe drop him a message and ask what one he used and go from there. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk
Just back from another test ride, the bike decided it wanted to stall when pulling in the clutch, weirdly it did it twice but wouldn't do it again on the way back to mine. I have tweaked the manual idle and I am wondering if that and still having a stepper motor are causing an issue. My plan now is to get the manual idle to sit at 1200-12500rpm, reset the tps so it understands that is the zero point, then adjust the stepper motor and reset everything. Frustrated is an understatement as it had a similar issue on the old engine and ECU which have both been changed, though I fully get it's a 765 engine using the gen 2 sensors etc. The only other option would be to transplant in the modern ECU and electronics but that adds in various sensors like abs etc that needs to be disabled since the bike doesn't have them. Oh and it still has an intermittent starting gremlin, it will literally crank for a bit and do nothing a number of times then fire, or it'll just fire up straight away with zero complaints Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk
You're probably very well aware Stephen, but when my CPS failed the initial symptom was precisely that.
I am indeed aware that it could be an issue with the CPS and have had them fail on my previous engine and its certainly not the same. Just today after getting the bike to adapt via the 12 minute idle the bike has been starting on the button again, so I fully believe its something else. The picture shows what my throttle bodies are running at and its quite a bit out between the 3 so I need to tweak these and get them reading similar numbers again.
Headache time now, been trying to sync these throttle bodies up and the best I can manage after the above picture is to get cyl 1 and 3 reading 730 give or take as they do move a tiny bit with cyl 2 up at 810-820 which isn't close. I'm going to check and replace the rubber boots that they slot into as I remember previously they can cause a leak somewhere along with the various hoses. Changed the map sensor just incase but that is reading the same on both so I know its not the sensor, Which points to the throttle bodies themselves which annoyingly were replaced with the new engine, hopefully I can get hold of my old ones because I know I had gotten them perfectly in sync from when I had them before. Really hating this bike build now because its the fine details now and I won't be happy until I know they're in sync due to the issues having them out can cause
Update on the above - So took off the throttle bodies and then the rubber boot for cyl 2 and found the rubber on the back has a slight split when you move it on the back, can't see it when it was on the bike, I don't think it goes all the way through but for peace of mind I'll be replacing all rubber boots to be sure. Fingers crossed at least Also, while adjusting the stepper motor I noted that when it extends the plate it moves kinda floats at one point and then snaps back down causing a slightly rough twitch in the voltage via tuneecu, so what I've done is rotate that little rubber triangle, can never remember how it goes but it was fitted with the point going through the gap in the movement plate so I've turned it. 90 degrees, before I did this the nut was right on the end of the thread, adjusted it via tuneecu with the .5mm gap and then got the tps sensor to .6v followed by the stepper motor which seems to move much more smoothly when you look at it, and the voltage on the tuneecu screen looks far better as it goes through the full range of movement.
Finally got the rubber boots off the other two cyl's and this is what cyl 1's rubber boot looked like. As you'll see that is a very big split, cyl 3 doesn't appear much better, much like cyl 2, both show splits but not all the way through. Either way that would very much create an issue if there are leaks in the system with regards to vacuum leaks etc. New parts were ordered a couple days ago and should arrive Monday so fingers crossed that should solve a few issues in one fell swoop. It's a nice reminder if your throttle bodies won't balance that the rubber boots could be worn due to age, being rubber on top of a hot engine going through many temp cycles.
Finally got the new rubber inlet boots for the throttle bodies fitted and bike ran up to temp. They blip within 10 or match each other across the three so that means they are perfectly spot on now. Problem solved in that area, though it may have created another issue, the bike was mapped with these splits in place so I suspect it is now running rich due to the air that was coming in unexpectedly, as much as we love flames, mine does a nice pop at 5k rpm and spits a flame on command, need to reset the adaption so that may help but I think its running a bit rich, obviously that is better than running lean but will need to be looked into
Got the bike to adapt so all good on that side of things but its back to cranking and not firing. Anyone know what the correct resistance reading for the cps sensor is on the 2020 765 engine as I know on the Daytona 675 it was 200ohms. Tested mine and this was the reading and it could explain the issue, should have checked it sooner but silly me. Google AI says anything between 200 and 1000 indicates a healthy unit, but that seems very vague in terms of the range which is quite large in my view compared to the older 675 bike And that leads to the next question, where to get a 765 cps sensor, again I know you can get a replacement one for the 675 and splice it in, but not been able to find one for the 765 and I can see from the pictures they're different, don't really want to fork out for the whole unit when I just need the one bit Update on this - Let the bike cool down completely and it fired up first time when I hit the button, as it warmed up I noted the idle was a bit low, but still running until I blipped the throttle a couple times and it stalled, fired back up and did it again with the throttle, very odd but as the bike got warmer it would crank a bit more before firing Second update - Now the bike is pretty much stone cold the cps is reading 250ohm's so its settled down a bit, not tried starting it again yet Third update - tested the CPS this morning and it's reading 190ohms so below the 200 and that could indicate where the issue is. Stator was charging he battery at over 14 volts when it was running so I don't suspect that.
As I said earlier mate, intermittently reluctant starting only when hot was the first symptom of my CPS's eventual failure. Having said that, you said you do also need a re-map (after discovering the intake leak). My bike's map has her running a little rich in general, and I do find hot starting in hot weather far less instant.
Yeah, I've tested the CPS multiple times now and the reading seems to enjoy changing, its now resting at 250ohms but who knows. The bike did fire up first time today while cold, the battery is charging at 14 volts so I know that is good to go. I've spoken to and sent pictures of the CPS on the bike to west county windings and hopefully they can get a new CPS sent out. I know what you mean though, it seems weird but its a case of ticking the boxes and going through each bit at a time, now the bike is balanced and adapted it does appear to idle more smoothly so that's a bonus, but I'd really like to sort this starting issue. I don't think it would be caused by the mixture of 2012 electronics and the new engine, but who knows now.
Waiting on replacement parts but while doing that and after having a chat with a friend of mine and a bit of head scratching he suggested if I'd checked the camshaft position sensor, obviously the Daytona doesn't have one of those but it does have a speed sensor and this can after doing a google search create similar issues that are happening on the bike, non starting, hesitating to start but then firing, low idle, stalling at slow speeds etc Took the tank off, airbox, throttle bodies to get at the sensor and its plug to test it. Did a simple resistance test between the three pins and either I'm being a complete idiot but I cannot get any reading on them. Retested the cps just to be sure and it is working but according to google I should be getting a reading across the pins of 1000ohms which is a lot. What's interesting is that sensor was on the old engine and I'd been having all the above issues for years and I never did find what was causing it, never tested the speed sensor but that same sensor was taken off the old engine and put onto the new one. I've already ordered a replacement and that should arrive tomorrow so I'll update when it arrives and I've tested it and fitted it
Little update now that the new speed sensor has arrived, tested the new sensor and have decided I'm an idiot when it comes to using a multimeter since I can't get the new sensor to give a reading either, so we're just going to replace it regardless and keep fingers crossed. I then noticed that one of the wires going into the new plug from the stator to the regulator was coming out, god only knows why, the other 5 wires are as tight as you like in either end of the plug, but this one wire has decided it wants to play peek a boo, so I'm now wondering if I should go down the normal route and just remove the plug and solder them directly, I hate soldering with a passion so I'm thinking maybe using some crimp shrink joints, wire in either end, crimp and then heat the shrink wrap before putting more shrink wrap over the top. Anyone an expert on a good option when it comes to wiring direct or would the above option do the job?
I suspect I'm loosing track slightly Stephen, do you mean the new sensor already has a dodgy contact ? -If so, isn't a replacement for the replacement the correct route ?
