Wheel is locked up

Tuneecu will not allow any of the function tests if the voltage is low, and the voltage displayed on the tuneecu screen is usually about 0.5v below actual battery voltage, on mine at least, so it needs to be pretty well charged.

just clamp the brake lever to stop fluid leaking if you need to disconnect, changed calipers on the car recently and with the pedal pushed down didn't lose any fluid.

 

Yes - voltage dropped to less than 10v so I knew that was the problem.
Worked a treat once full of juice so all good.
Thanks for the tip on the brake lever, will give that a go this week

 

Removed the calipers and I think I will change the pads as they look awefull.
A few pics:







Need get the pistons out but don't have a compressor so will see if my neighbour over the road can lend me his then I can see how the pistons look etc.

 

Fwiw I would suggest that it is best to clean the pistons without removing them, if you are able.

 

I'd agree with St Marks. Just been cleaning mine with a toothbrush and brake cleaner . If you pop the pistons out it will be a rebuild with seals etc is my understanding. Hope you get sorted. It's a pain. Alternatively, there's a company will rebuild them cheaply... just trying to recall the name....

 

Unless your'e planning to replace the seals anyway I would also just pump the pistons out sufficiently to clean, while its still connected to the brake line, much more control than using a compressor.
May want to deal with that corrosion before it spreads, especially as its around the area the pads need to move freely.
I know some people say put red rubber grease on the pistons after cleaning before pushing them back but i'm not a fan, if the seals are working properly it'll all be wiped off and then collect dust if not cleaned again.

 

Powerhouse?;

Motorcycle Brake Caliper Refurbishment • Powerhouse

 

That's the one

 

Thanks all for your input.
I was thinking that as I have the callipers off of the brake lines I may as well replace and thoroughly clean evertyhing so give them a full service - that way I will be confident that when mounted on the bike everything will be as it should be.
Best place for seals, pads etc?

 

In my experience those parts that are "inside" are usually in good fettle, and unless the seals are removed or damaged they generally do not need replacement. You can very easily spend a lot of time & money for very little gain, but you can often gain substantial improvement for no outlay other than painstaking & time-consuming effort.
Brake pads seem to have almost as many "brand fans" as motor oils do. Fwiw there is nothing wrong with the OEM Triumph ones, but if I am to choose aftermarket ones I personally am a "Bembo fan". I got a deal on some Brembo SR pads the were on Amazon of all places, at only about £40 for a full set from Brembo themselves.! (I'm sure someone made a mistake somewhere, so I got two sets).

 

Understand where you are coming from but a couple of the pistons are fairly far back to will be har to clean them properly.
Also the part of the piston which is away from view could be where the issue is so still sounds best to me to pop them all out?

 

I've only read the last few posts on this thread, so I'm not sure what others have suggested, but given the state of the pistons I'd suggest that that's where your problem is coming from.

Sent from my SM-G996B using 675.cc mobile app

 

Cheers and that is the concensus.
Will pop them out and clean everything thoroughly.

 

FYI my preferential tool kit, when I am renovating calipers, include :
Plastic scouring pads (this sort of thing https://www.toolstation.com/contour...iWIxbn29xN9aMunasnBoCFxEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds )
Silicon grease, for the rubber seals when re-assembling
ACF50, to apply to all the cleaned surfaces outside of the hydraulic fluid chamber after cleaning.
Due to your initial symptoms, I would suggest you pay particular attention to the inside edge of the caliper, surface corrosion of that lip causes it to bind on the pistons.
Good luck.!

 

@gninnam I lots of those pads in all colours if you don't have easy access I can post you one if @StMarks suggests which grade would be best? Just DM me where you want it sent. Fingers crossed you're on the right path now

 

Thanks for the offer - I already have some from when I rebuilt an old Vw camper van many years ago.

 

Cheers again - will check my supplies as I think I have most of that suff already.
I have a ultrasonic cleaner so will totally strip and use that to make sure the calipers are in fine fettle (may give them a quick coating of fresh paint!).
Hoping to start this week with the rebuild (just need to get the compressor of my neighbour)

 

Fwiw before I had my own compressor, I used to use a (car tyre type) foot pump. Most of the time it was perfectly adequate.

 

Good idea - will see what I have in the garage

 

I have a battery powered tyre inflator so used that to get the pistons out which worked so thanks
First piston out and it is damaged - picture one shows the dirt build up on the inside which you can't see and the second shows some damage (there is more but not as bad).





I assume the others may be similar so looks like I need new pistons as well