Wheel is locked up

Good call - will have a go either tomorrow or at the weekend.

 

Are they aftermarket adjustable levers?
Sometimes the closest setting actually pushes on the m/c which i had on a cheap set for my STR many moons ago.
or the lever pin adjusted too far out that pushes the m/c?

Same problem on clutch side would prevent it starting as not releasing switch enough.

 

They are aftermarket so something else I will check

 

Checked the levers and they were set at the furthest setting. Played around with them and made no difference but worth a check.

 

Carried out what you suggested. Release the connection (banjo?) from underneath the MC and no difference for the calipers - still excerting pressure against the disks so looks like you maybe correct

So, next step I suppose will be to take the calipers out and overall them - new seals and stuff I suppose.

Cheers

 

Well, at least we've saved you wasting on an unnecessary MC..

Fwiw I usually find that a lot of careful & thorough cleaning is all that is needed. Obviously it will depend on the state of your pistons & the lips of the calipers.
Obviously when cleaning NEVER use any fluids that may damage the rubber seals (esp' oil based which causes them to swell & really will seize the brakes up).

Hth

 

So true boss

 

On my way home from work tonight I was thinking about my locking problem and I think I may have made the issue worse
I forgot to mention that my bike has ABS so the brake line from the MC will go via the ABS pump before getting to the calipers and I read somewhere that if you get air in this it may need to go to a stealer to sort. Is this true?

 

If you have the dealertool software or maybe tune ecu has it, then they have an abs bleed program.
It runs the pump for you to help bleed it.

Otherwise will need the delaler to do that for you, yes.

 

As Craig said, Dealertool or Tuneecu will let you bleed the ABS, I use Tuneecu on both my bikes.

 

Thanks guys - will look into it.

 

Just pricing up the Tuneecu product with a compatible OBD connector and doesn't seem to bad.
Couldn't see how to get the license though or am I being stupid??

 

The App can be downloaded here TuneECU for Android
Also pdf's for install and registration
As you're probably aware its slightly different as its not available via a "store" and has to loaded directly, and license paid using Paypal to the developer.
The license now only last for 12 months, used to be £25 for life (£10 when i bought mine), I posted on here before the change to give people a heads up.
I highly recommend the OBDLink LX adaptor, its not the cheapest but is one of the only one's that supports re-programming, but even if you only intend to use it for maintenance its the best option, there are many adaptors that claim to work but don't.

 

Thanks - the OBLINK LX ain't cheap but if it works then I will go for it.

Cheers

 

There are some cheaper options that should work if you don't need re-mapping functionality, these links are from the Tuneecu website but I haven't tried them personally, I did try one from ebay which promised full functionality with Tuneecu on Triumphs, it connected to the ecu ok but wouldn't allow re-mapping (which I needed) so I returned it, I'd already tried two others prior to that which wouldn't even connect, before eventually going for the OBDLink, which is why I normally recommend it as a first choice before wasting money on other options.
Don't forget "re-mapping" doesn't have to mean fuelling/ignition map changes, could be something as simple as disabling the Exup or SAI, also if you change bikes in the future, on some of the newer Triumphs the OBDLink is required just to reset the service interval.

ELM 327 Bluetooth Multi-Brand Automotive Diagnostic Interface (obdauto.fr)
OBD2 Wireless Bluetooth Fault Code Live Data Reader V1.5 - Lonelec

 

Thanks again - I will go for the full blown version as yourself just to cover all bases now and in the future.

 

Ordered the dongle.
Busy the next few weekends so will have a go once I have some free time.

 

Bleed the brakes yesterday and no have feel in the brake lever again.
Used the TuneECU tool also but my battery was too low (my trickle charger is about 100 years old and sometimes doesn't work) so left it charging last night and will give the bleeding of the ABS module another go.

If this doesn't fix the non returning calipers which would mean the cleaning of the pistons as mentioned above, would I damage the brake lines if I use clamps on them?

 

Thanks. Onwards an upwards.