I have stripped off most things that are in the way but have gotten to the dreaded throttle cable screws. These seem very tight and ripe for stripping. I hesitate to use an electric impact driver - is this wise? Is there a fall back if the heads strip? Presumably throttle bodies off but this looks equally tricky as the Allen bolts on the intakes look inaccessible (particularly the LHS). Any tips please on getting these screws out? Anyone know the size bit please? Any help or guidance appreciated.
So.... its a bit of an art however you can remove the top of the engine without removing the throttle bodies. But if you're still keen to remove them, I've always done mine with an extension bar on a screwdriver, its tricky but you'll know when the allen head is in the slot. The one on the LHS as you say is tricky because of the OEM placement and requires from memory that you remove the coolant bottle, could be wrong as its been a while since I saw it in the OEM position. I moved all mine around so you can access them with various lengths of extenders from the RHS
I think the screws are JIS (Japanese industrial standard). If you use the right tool, they should be ok. I changed mine for cap head allen bolts.
If the screws are JIS (Japanese ind std), there will be a small indent/circle on the head of the screw. If you Google JIS screw, you'll see what I mean. Sent from my SM-S926B using 675.cc mobile app
Thanks for your prompt replies. Should have stated mine is 2014 model. Anyway, I managed to undo both bolts. I used the best fitting cross head bit from my DeWalt set with a T bar drive was good enough for the upper one. The lower remained obstinate so out came the electric impact driver and a gentle tickle with that was all it needed. Hex caps may be a good idea if I can find some.
Sorry, bit late to the party, at least you've got them out, i had to remove the throttle bodies to do it in the vice. As you said replacing them with cap head Allen bolts fixes the problem
Should be ok, just tie up any loose cables/connectors/hoses out of the way to make the most of what little space you have. some notes and pics from my last service which may, or not, be of some help. https://675.cc/threads/27k-daytona-service-plus-extras.45652/
Well all done (well nearly). In retrospect it wasn't so bad but a lot of stuff to remove and put back. It was not easy to get accurate exhaust clearance readings due to poor access. I finally convinced myself that the exhaust clearances were all just in spec at the lower end and not worth pulling the cams out. I didn't drop the rad - maybe that would have made it easier. I'll do this when I check the next time in 6000 miles time. Just discovered my top end kit contained STriple plugs (CR9EK) rather than the Daytona OEM plugs (CR9EIA) so it looks like the thing has to come apart again, grrr as I installed without checking. Perusing the NGK chart I gather that the CR9EKs should work ok in terms of reach and heat rating - at least to fire it up and see all is ok.
Glad it went ok, granted its much less of a job just checking if you don't need to remove the cams to re-shim. Not sure about the plugs, think they were in the previous gen Daytona as well, I guess Iridium is an upgrade although it says CR9EIX is the upgrade from the CR9EK and not the CR9EIA-9. Tank (or just tilt) and airbox isn't too bad to reach the plugs for peace of mind, although mine looked like new last time and like yours probably get changed more frequently than is necessary given longevity is one of the benefits.
