675.cc • Triumph 675 Forum

Sump Gasket Upgrade for Pre '08 bikes

Discussion in 'How To's' started by StMarks, Aug 1, 2015.

  1. StMarks

    StMarks

    Thread Starter

    PTG

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    On the early Daytona 675 the gasket simply follows the perimeter of the sump, as gaskets generally do.

    It soon became evident that the racers were experiencing some issues, and so Triumph amended the design of the sump gasket to incorporate a baffled section of the sump & and altered the pressure relief valve.

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20Sump_20gaf88c9e3f42680abcd6ceac4ac25b940f.jpg

    The sump gasket with baffle is part number; T1230111

    The replacement pressure relief valve (that MUST be changed at the same time) is part number; T1210207

    I have been told that the original perimeter only gasket is now obsolete, so I think that your dealer will only show these new type gasket even for the early bikes. Remember you have to replace the pressure relief valve when you upgrade the gasket.

    I have been informed that the above parts are available from Triumph as a kit. Kit number is T1210212 which cost about £46 +VAT so works out about £10 cheaper them buying them separate.

    These earlier bikes can be upgraded fairly easily. For road bikes this is less likely to be necessary, however for bikes that will spend a lot of time on track it is a wise investment (as a few unfortunate members on here can attest). If you are going to race your 675, it is vital that you do this upgrade IMHO.


    Please note this is only applicable to the earliest (pre facelift ) engines, as the subsequent engines are fitted with this setup as standard.

    Firstly you will need to remove your lower plastics & the exhaust headers (manifold) & drain the oil from the sump.

    Next unbolt the sump & lower it carefully, then place to one side. (Always good to inspect in there whilst it is off, for any swarf etc.. & give it a through clean out, as there will never be a better chance to get rid of the crud that inevitably accumulates in the nooks & crannies of the sump).

    You will be presented with a view (looking up at the engine) like this;
    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_291220131420.jpg_cfba98a0f3f4f7f86e72071fa527cc4b.jpg

    Some of the old gasket may have stuck to the sump, some to the bottom of the engine. You must carefully remove all signs of the old gasket, cleaning back to a flat & perfect surface. ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_Sump_20old_20ga7ddb942dd176a5abc5125ce9cc56e485.jpg

    Replace the pressure relief valve

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20pressure_e761752d6bff003cc2b4873df3f83ee1.jpg

    Un-bolt the oil feed pipe that loops down,

    Then carefully place the new sump gasket into place & replace the oil feed pipe (with a new rubber O ring )

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20sump_20gac73b978fa2d7f0676c52bde4c09d212b.jpg

    Then lift the sump up carefully & replace the bolts.

    Remember to tighten the bolts up working in a crosswise pattern, gradually & evenly.

    Refill oil, replace exhaust, refit plastics etc...

    Anything I've missed off above please post below, & I'll amend this "How To" to include your advice.

    Thanks.

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20Sump_20gaf88c9e3f42680abcd6ceac4ac25b940f.jpg

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_291220131420.jpg_cfba98a0f3f4f7f86e72071fa527cc4b.jpg

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_Sump_20old_20ga7ddb942dd176a5abc5125ce9cc56e485.jpg

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20pressure_e761752d6bff003cc2b4873df3f83ee1.jpg

    ai1266.photobucket.com_albums_jj532_StMarks675_New_20sump_20gac73b978fa2d7f0676c52bde4c09d212b.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2015
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  2. Wat was the issues racers experienced?
     
  3. StMarks

    StMarks

    Thread Starter

    PTG

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    I believe there were two possible ( "alleged" ) issues.
    Hydraulic lock, due to foaming of the oil, that caused lubrication starvation.
    &
    Oil starvation on very long high speed corners where the bike was at steep lean for a sustained period.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2015
  4. Cool, cheers. Awesome info
     
  5. Captain Steffydog

    Captain Steffydog Moderator Staff Member

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    Many thanks for this, looks like a two man job, one knowing what he's doing! That's me out he he he.
     
  6. Captain Steffydog

    Captain Steffydog Moderator Staff Member

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    Ps, how much oil do we stick in the old engine, the book says 3L with a new oil filter, I emptied mine today, and filter, 3L came out.

    I stuck 2.5 in and will check when it's all back together, the oil wasn't great that came out, dark n err rubbish. So I'll do one track day, then swop it out, hope that flushes the crud out.

    I tipped the bike up on the paddock stand to aid draining, hope that's ok?
     
  7. Cheers fella. I stock. It on my thing to do list as I'm spend more time on track
     
  8. What's the score on this if the bike has a billet oil cooler already? I heard that wss to stop the oil cavitating and blowing the engine. As my bike is an 07 track bike I'm interested.....
     
  9. You can over fill the older engine up to 500ml so it's at the top of the hash markings on the dipstick, I do and have had no issue at a recent day at Donny.
     
  10. Electric kid

    Electric kid

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    The Haynes manual specifically says your can do that too.

    I stick 3.5ltrs in mine every time.
     
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  11. StMarks

    StMarks

    Thread Starter

    PTG

    12,813
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    Afik the solid metal oil cooler bypass that you have fitted is to eliminate the danger of the standard unit rupturing & allowing the coolant into the engine. When that happens, it pressurises the engine & ejects the oil & coolant fairly dramatically & instantly. The resultant emulsified mix is not an effective lubricant either, and so the engine must be stopped ASAP to prevent further damage. Even if that is done, & no other damage is incurred, a lengthy clean up is required.
    That potential issue is not related to the sump gasket though, afaik.

    Can'y think why I thought of you whilst writing it mate.:whistle:

    Remember all you proper engineers, please post up any corrections/improvements I can make to the post. I'm not the type to take that as picking, & I'd far rather the thread be totally clear & correct.
     
  12. Thanks for posting. My bike is going track only next year and was already planning this mod, good to have a step by step guide, thanks.
     
  13. Best I do mine then. Thanks for the heads up on this. Great write up too
     
  14. Kirklet

    Kirklet

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    I’ve just dropped the sump from my 06 bike (that I’m converting to a track only bike) to carry out this mod only to find it had already been done ! :mad: :rolleyes:
    Just for a further bit of information the two sump bolts under the swingarm pivot are a fricken bastid to get out, there’s literally no room to draw the flanged bolts out. I also found it impossible to start them off in the thread when reassembling it if I put these two bolts in last. So I’d advise fitting them two bolts first and then installing the rest afterwards.

    Oh, anybody want to buy the gasket and PRV kit, I have one spare ! :beer:
     
  15. How much do you want for the kit?
     
  16. Kirklet

    Kirklet

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    Hi Peggy. Think I paid £30 delivered. Can have it for that if you want?
     

  17. I know it’s been 2 &1/2 years since this post but I really could use that gasket and PRV kit. Is it still available? If so could you either contact me via email at jwoodard801@gmail.com or phone at 801-310-3556? Text is always better for me as I restore vintage motorcycles and so I spend a lot of time either away from my office or in the powder coating booth which means I hear about 1 out of 100 calls. Thanks again and take care. I hope to hear back soon.
     
  18. Kirklet

    Kirklet

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    I’ve emailed you matey, I still have the kit in the garage.

    cheers
     

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