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STR 15 Engine Remove - Need T3880103

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Tweaks' started by Robert, Mar 18, 2021.

  1. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
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    Location: Ireland
    Hi Guys

    Dropping the engine on my Street Triple R this weekend as I want to get some of the front paint work cleaned up. Looking at Haynes and the Triumph manual, it seems I need tool T3880103, which is just like a a large flat head screw driver.

    From looking at my frame bolts the heads on these look like Torx bits. Is there elements behind these that need T3880103, I cant see it!

    So either I am missing something but it looks like a standard nut and torx job.

    Did later models not need the special tool or have my parts just been replaced?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. The bolts you can see are the frame bolts. When they are removed you can get to the spacers which wind in or out with the special tool you mention. You can use a big screwdriver but when you come to put the engine back in they will need tightening to 3nm (from memory, please check). I cut the handle off my screwdriver and put the end in a socket but it wasn't a perfect method. If the tool is cheap I'd probably get it.
    20210319_104906.jpg
     
  3. Incidentally getting the engine out is much easier than getting it back in again and would be a real struggle to do on your own if you don't have an engine lift. I found the easiest way was to completely strip the front end and raise the frame by ratcheting it up to the ceiling, placing the engine on blocks approximately 20cm up and then lowering the frame over the engine. Good luck!
    20210302_111555.jpg
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
  4. Looks an awful lot of work just for a bit of paint, wasn't there also some isolated cases of frames cracking on the welds due to incorrect engine mount alignment or torqueing sequence?
    Don't want to scaremonger as I'm sure there's loads of people on here who take engines in and out all the time with no problems, i never have though and I don't think flaking paint would be a big enough reason for me to tackle it.
    Good luck though.
     
  5. Agree with Wobbly 100%. You might find you scratch more paint off dropping and installing the engine as it's a tight fit!
     
  6. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    I’ve the bike up on a paddock and headstock stand with the plan being to lower the engine via the jack. Hopefully have enough clearance to just lower (and raise back in) the engine

    Didn’t know about the cracked welds. Another thing that worry about ! The adjusters are a very low torque so I guess the cracks people have come from over doing it when tightening everything back up.

    But cheers for the comments guys. Always good to have something to refer back to !

    Wish me luck. Big drop on Sunday. Unless you all scare me off the idea


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  7. Sorry, it wasn't my intention to scare you off the idea, its your bike and totally your decision.
    It just that I'm sure I'm not the only person who's started a job in the past when it wasn't absolutely necessary and then something goes wrong down the line and you wish you'd never tackled it.
    Also my information about the cracked frames may have been slightly inaccurate, its possible they were caused by one loose engine mounting bolt putting uneven stress on the frame, and not incorrect mounting or torqueing as I suggested.
    Check Your Frames For Cracks! | The Triumph Forum
    In any case I think with the engine being a stressed member its important to closely follow the engine installation sequence in the manual.
    Good luck;)
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  8. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
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    8
    Location: Ireland
    No no I didn’t mean to seem like I was put off. Just making light of it ! It’s good to have the extra info.

    100% know there feeling of starting a job to regret it just after the point of no return

    Sure I was ready to swing for someone when I had the rear wheel off and those bloody spacers kept falling out so I’m sure I’ll be a picture of calm when jacking the engine back in and it won’t fit.


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  9. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    Studying the install steps with more detail today and as you say the steps and torque is pretty specific.

    Looking at the steps and the diagram it looks like the bottom and rear bolt should insert from the left side of the bike
    [​IMG]

    Where as mine seem to be inserted from the left , as the nut is on the left side

    [​IMG]

    Looking at other models on google images it seems that this is correct.

    Maybe the manual is just not updated here for these 2013+ models ?

    How do the bolts look for your guys , which side have your bolts been inserted from ?

    Tah


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  10. If you read a bit further you put them in on the left initially for positioning purposes and when other bolts etc are in you remove them and put them in from the other side.
     
  11. I put my engine in very recently with the help of this forum so any questions fire away.
    My initial plan was like yours, to get the engine in place and raise it with a jack. The logistics of getting the engine on a jack and slide it under the frame and then up weren't as simple as I'd imagined!
     
  12. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    [​IMG]

    Unless I have it backwards. Seems to suggest inserting from the right initially as the temp and then swap to the left.

    I’m guessing it’s just the same set of instructions and not been updated for the later models.

    The exploded diagram on WoT seems to marry with how mine are current. Conflicting and confusing

    [​IMG]


    With the jack then. Was it just a case you couldn’t get enough drop of it to get clear from the front “arms”? Happy to learn from your sticking points


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  13. Hmm not sure now! Afaik there are 2 manuals. Links to both on here somewhere. One for 06-12 and one for 13+. Mine is 13+. I remember thinking the bolts looked wrong in the first position but when they go in the other side they sit much nicer.
    The problem with the jacking method was with the frame at the right height they isn't much room to slide the engine in and it's pretty heavy and awkward. There isn't much spare space in there. I am no mechanic though so you may make it work. I had some 100mm celotex insulation lying round so I cut 2 60cm² pieces and put them on top of each other to make a square 20 cm high. I sat the engine on top of them. That meant I could move the engine round a bit and gave me a bit of wriggle room to tweak the positioning. I had a mate hold the engine in position and then lowered the frame over it. I then got the main bolts in and then raised the lot with a headstock stand. It's a bugger to get the engine into the frame in exactly the right position! From there the main advice I would give you would be the follow the manual step by step exactly and not do what I did which was to decide I knew best and start connecting cables randomly and then end up with various 'spare' connectors. I have taken my airbox off and on more times than I care to remember to finally connect everything.
     
  14. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    Same as my self. No expert at all. But trial and error has served me ok so far. I was worried about the electrical connections and have labelled everything in the hope I can get everything back. More worried about the routing of it all.

    Yea very confusing. The manual I’m reading claims to be from VIN 560477 which should cover me but here we are with a left vs right confusion

    Tah for the info. My plan was / is similar. Have loads of padding below the engine as a drop protection but I suppose if worst comes to it I could work in your methods.

    Tomorrow is the go day so I’ll update my progress.

    Appreciate the info.


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  15. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    That’s the same copy of the manual I have so that’s the source of all the confusion

    Thanks. I’ll be fine. I hope


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  16. Robert

    Robert

    Thread Starter

    53
    1
    8
    Location: Ireland
    Managed to drop the engine without too much drama. Biggest issue was getting the jack to drop straight. Definitely could be easier with a scissor / vertical jack but with me cradling the engine between my legs as I sat and steered and my dad lowering the jack it came out without much fight.

    Think I might invest for a better suited jack for the install
    [​IMG]


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  17. CamPhair

    CamPhair

    155
    6
    18
    Location: Stirling
    I haven't removed the engine on mine but I did remove the swingarm a couple of years ago.
    I think the tool you mentioned is the same thing for this task. Positioning screws sit behind the outer ones with the idea that the inner screw centralises the engine /swingarm.
    I got a piece of flat bar and welded a socket on to it so I could torque it to the correct value.
    IMG_20210322_203905.jpeg IMG_20210322_203849.jpeg

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