It wasn't just the apparent tight spot, I thought the pins looked a little over flared which may have tightened the side plate even more. As already said, vernier is your friend, i usually press the side plate on about 0.1-0.2mm wider than the adjacent link, as the pin flaring will close it slightly. Also measure the pin flare against the DID spec, or whatever brand you use, as it probably needs a lot less than you think, most people go overboard as they're paranoid about the chain coming apart. Good luck for the mot These flare dimensions refer to the DID chain tool, other tools may vary depending on the diameter of the ball, but its a good guide.
Thanks mate. That's super helpful I'll take my time and measure. Always easier to flare a bit more than take a bit off. Just excited to get it sorted. Fingers crossed for the MOT. I'll let everyone know how it goes. Not there yet mind! A few jobs left.
So....I think....all done. New master chain link fitted, courtesy of @wobblybiker99 and his chart. Worked a charm. Much appreciated. Bike reassembled. Started....ran like a dream. But wouldn't idle if started from hot. P1105 - MAP sensor pipe fault. Hmmm...who forgot to plug the wee pipe at the bottom front of the air box back in? Donkeys ears on! Off with the tank and quickly sorted. TuneEcu to clear loads of codes caused by firing the bike up with various bits unplugged etc. and.....contact! Runs like a dream. MOT sorted with no advisories. Temp stable as you like ( thanks @Colin Smith for the rad). Seems like the project is complete. Had it out for a blast and love it! I fear.... another keeper! Lol.... which I just don't have space for. If anyone is thinking of getting one of these gen 1s as a project...box on. Parts are everywhere and cheap. Find one in decent nick and as standard as possible would be my advice . Easy to work on an TuneEcu a cheap way of managing faults and testing . Just the front forks left to service... it's an R model...so may have some questions for those who've done this with an R. If anyone knew of a video on YouTube which showed the R forks of a gen 1 being serviced and knew enough to say it was a good instruction video, I'd be over the moon. I know it's taken an age BTW . I've only worked on it intermittently and ever intended to use it in winter. Thanks for the interest
I don't know...but I don't think so. Looks fairly standard to me. I have a brand new comfort seat I'm going to put on next week though
I bought one colour coded cowl . Still looking for the offside one. It'll turn up I hope. Found this on eBay in good nick. If anyone has such a thing in colour?
Up in the borders having ridden through a monsoon! Was faultless . It's been a good find this. Just done the numbers and it's cost me £2000 plus tyres. And about 35 hours. But that's where the fun is. Lol. I've got my eye on another now
Rode 180 mile round trip to see a friend in the pouring rain! Bike was brilliant....pulls like a train, makes a great noise, temps all very stable. The only issue is a pulsing from the front brake... which strongly suggests something is out of true. As I've cleaned the calipers and put new genuine triumph pads in I'm guessing the place to start is the discs themselves to check for warping? Any good ideas as to what to try before I start ordering run out gauges etc would be appreciated. Am I right in thinking I could slot in the front wheel from my 2009 Daytona into this 2009 STR as a quick check to establish it is indeed the wheel/discs or whatever? All ideas welcome to help trouble shoot. I've really enjoyed this experience and now looking for another. Lol
Fwiw trying the wheel from your Daytona would be my approach. It does sound like a disc may have taken a knock though.? Strangely the times at trackdays that I see spare wheels chucked on their sides, laying on their discs, with seemingly little care. Perhaps I'm just "overly precious" with mine, but whenever a front wheel is removed I am a bit paranoid about avoiding even laying them down.
Thanks StMarks. I'll try the wheel and discs from my D675 first. If that sorts it either the wheel, the disc or both must be out of true . Happy days. No great rush but I've some days off next week and I'll get to it then. All appreciated.
spin wheel on front axle stand you can often see if there is any obvious deflection as they go round without need for run our gauge, or can use anything as a marker for runout if it is taped/attached to the fork or caliper.
Thanks @cpszx . When I get ten mins I'll do just that as a starter Most likely a disc... I'll start with that. If it looks out of true I'll swap in the d665 wheel to check and then go from there. Minor issues in the scheme o things. . Nearly there now and it runs lovely. Jen's going to have a go with it.
i've still got the repaired rad cowl if you want it sending up, or if we ever get a fest organised this year?
That's very kind mate. I'd appreciate it. I'll give you a call this week and see if we can find a weekend. .
100% agree, you really don't need a dial measuring to tell you how far out it is at this stage. You simply need to identify the source of the pulsating, don't you. I suppose there is a chance it could be something less obvious like a wheel bearing, but fwiw my money is with you on it being a disc. Good luck, & please let us know how you get on.
So.... doing some cleaning today after a run out . Someone mentioned it might be a sergant seat so I had a look and....it's a Tony Archer seat. Certainly comfortable Secondly....the brake pulsing issues. I thought before I start changing discs I might check the bobbins are free and the disc floating. They aren't and it isn't! So...extra brake cleaner ordered and I'll use the old nut and bolt trick to clean and free them off, unless someone has a better idea? It will hopefully solve the issue but if not.... nothing lost