The exhaust has rotted out...and needs a complete system. I'd imagine the rear suspension linkage will need work... probably a brake fluid flush/Pads and a service including coolant. It's a little bit in need of love but all there and runs. Really pleased with it
looking at the fork sliders, no obvious signs of corrosion, and the front calipers themselves look pretty tidy. Fwiw I'd judge that she's probably not too bad at all mate. Whenever I look on Fleabay there always sees to be an abundance of exhausts for them, so perhaps addressing that shouldn't prove a major obstacle. Enjoy.
It looks well....if a little tatty in a few places. Found an exhaust on eBay which looks brand new and bought that. A couple of other purchases which I'll put up and explain once I've got things sorted. It'll be interesting to see what is like when I've dug into it. It may be of interest to folk so I'll put a few posts up once I get going.
SNAP! I'm doing the same thing! Just ordered a second hand swing arm off eBay for mine as the paint is bubbling off in lots of places. £40 delivered. Had to repaint bits of the the engine too and the radiator as both had paint flaking off and the aluminium was going furry. Have to say though the paint on the body work has come up lovey. I've put Arrow cans on mine, also from a scrap yard.
LOL... great minds think alike I may tap into your knowledge once I get it stripped. Flaking engine paint sounds probable....along with various other maladies no doubt. I'll get some.pics as I go and post them up. Paintwork looks ok though a few dings in it in parts. Rear panels are dirty...but unmarked A lot of fun this for no money. Mind...if I don't get the rear half of 2011 STR I bought out of the house tomorrow I may be making my own dinner. ...which having spoken with @cpszx I've realised came still fitted with a triumph accessory grab rail! Must be some brass in this muck I reckon
Right into the workshop.....first thing it needs is a proper wash after 2 years stood doing nothing! Then....well then it needs stripping down and we'll see what it really needs. Can anyone see if that's a manual CCT or the auto stock one I'd want in it? Getting quite excited now....
A short update as I've been busy and not had a lot of time. Changed the oil and filter today. I've a full service kit which I bought for £60 some time ago which is coming in handy. The stuff that came out was fairly clean but must be two years old given the length of time it's stood. Coolant a different story....in fact, I'd say it was mostly water....and muddy water at that. I've flushed the whole system twice with deionised water and popped the coolant in to keep it from freezing/corroding. The rad has flaky paint so in the spring I'll revisit this and pull all the pipes off etc and make a better job of it. If anyone has a suggestion about how to clean out the cooling system effectively... I'm all ears! The rest of the bike is in great condition. It has obviously been worked on by someone competent as the fasteners are all in good order and marked to show they've been torqued. All the bodywork apart from the cowl off and cleaned. In really good condition I've bought two tank rubbers which were missing to support onto the frame. Tyres are from 2015 so a set of roadsmart 2s inbound. It's going to be an all.weather street bike so no point in sticky rubber. Up on the ABBA stand next week to remove the swing arm etc. see what that's all like. I'll show my backside in Harrods Christmas window if it doesn't need suspension bearings . Last point....not having any service history, I'm going to get the valve clearances checked by a pro. It's cheap enough if you do all the dismantling yourself and building back up. That's it so far. Like all projects...takes far longer than anticipated. Two questions.... Does anyone know anything about welding stainless steel exhausts? How difficult is it to remove the headers? All good fun so far. Total spend including bike £1690
Headers are easy to remove if the nuts are rusty, same with the studs. When I did mine due to needing the header cracks welded I ended up cutting the nut heads off to leave the studs and using a stud extractor tool to get the studs out New stainless studs in, and away you go. You just need to undo the radiator and tilt it forward to get at the bolts, if they come out fantastic, if you need to fuck about take the radiator off. Sent from my Nokia X20 using Tapatalk
Thanks Stephen. Good point about just butchering the things if necessary and getting new studs Given the cooling system and radiator need a proper flush, I think I'll take them off and remove the headers. The end near the rear wheel is rotted off where it meets the link pipe (I'll get a picture next time so it's clear what I mean) so I need a new flange welding on....hence my question about welding. Might as well do it properly and do it once . Did you have a recommendation for studs and nuts or are they fairly generic? Cheers
Fairly generic tbf, just make sure they're the ones with a hole in one end so you can screw them in using an Allen key head, then it's a case of using some stud lock stuff to stop them coming back out As for the pipes it may be cheaper to buy a replacement set, while they're off and being welded I had mine shot blasted to clean them back up a treat Sent from my Nokia X20 using Tapatalk
Is that your workshop with the Mini Traveller and FO big forklift? ...or are they pics from where you bought it?
I bloody wish it was my workshop @Stu675 ! It's a friend of my dad's who's allowing me to squat there and use the acetylene, compressed air, 40 thousand tools and a lifetime of knowledge to help when needed . I've now decided however I'm moving house and getting a workshop so this cheap bike isn't that cheap
