Need to repair the front subframe that hold the dash and the nose cone and trying to work out what it is? I thought it was/is aluminium but not 100% sure - any one help?
It's been a while since I had a look at a broken one, but I think it's cast aluminium (so not especially easy to weld). That's assuming the Gen 3 one is the same construction as the Gen 1/Gen 2
Thanks Colin. I think it is not plain alu - I can bu a brand new one from Fowlers for £170 but would rather not!!
I'm pretty sure the subframe on the Gen 3 must be a different design to the earlier Daytonas? If for any reason it's not, then I do have a spare early one.
Fwiw I have broken two of those OEM front subframes, albiet on the earlier version.They are different. They are a cast alloy, and susceptible to snapping. First one I broke at Donnington was obliterated. Next one was at Cadwell the same year, and only snapped one arm off. I successfully welded it back together with my Mig welder. It works fine for track, but I have a perfect one for road use, as the mirror mounts from it. So, if you've got any mates who are fabricators & can do aluminium welding, it may be worth asking ??
Just checked and it says it is the same for all models Gen 2 onwards I believe? Clicking these links will change the year of your vehicle selection Triumph Daytona 675 from VIN 564948 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 Triumph Daytona 675 R from VIN 564948 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 Can anyone confirm ?
Or, if you have a blowlamp, a dremmel & you're feeling like a challenge... There are those aluminium brazing rods you can get !
Not correct I'm afraid. The front subframe is the same on all Daytona versions from 2005 until the Gen3 was introduced in 2013. The all new version has a completely different front subframe for the different fairings etc. Hth
It has to be worth a go if you already have them doesn't it..? Fwiw I spent ages making sure that mine was lined up perfectly & meeting surfaces were nice & tight.... ... Then I welded it, but without remembering to set a groove into the upper surface. It was solid & straight, but I had to grind the top half off, then V groove it before welding it yet again.
If you get stuck with it, I have a good friend who is a top notch aluminium welder (used to work for Prodrive). If anyone can do it perfectly, it will be him.
Appreciate - will see if I can find my rods and give it a go and if it looks crap, then I will be in touch
Your repair looks solid enough, did you manage it yourself with those brazing rods or was it alloy welded in the end?