Alright guys, I'm new to this forum, but will be spending many hours on here in the future! I picked up my '08 Daytona on Saturday morning and have to admit it's the best purchase ever!! I absolutely love it! The sound, the power and how it handles! After doing a track day yesterday at Oulton Park I realise that i want to start doing a few mods! I want to put a new chain and sprockets on and heard people talking about -1 on the front and +1 on the back? Can anyone advise me on what this means, why i should do it and what are the best chain and sprockets to go for? I was also thinking of putting some Pazzo levers on to make things more adjustable and they do look damn cool! Do i go for the folding ones or normal ones? One more thing, if i was just going to put an Arrow can on as apposed to the full system, would the bike still require a remap? And if so where could i get it done and how much does it cost? I'd really appreciate anyone's input on these matters and sorry for such a long post!!
-1 +1 means better accelleration but lower top speed. Folding adjustable levers are the best, if you do bin it the levers should still be usable. Your actual choice there will be short ones or long ones. The arrow can is excellent, but you will need a re-map. While you're getting it re-mapped you can get the speed sensor tweaked to suit the sprockets and stop the speedo reading too high (Triumph dealers probably won't do that, they'll just upload a stock map for the Arrow can). Highly recommend all three mods.
-1 tooth on the front sprocket means less chain links per revolution, and +1 on the back means 1 more chain link per rear wheel revolution. I.e. the engine is trying to do less work (it's turning the rear wheel less per rev), so you lose speed, but gain acceleration because it's easier to up the revs because less work is being done. the choice of -1/+1, instead of, lets say, -0/+3, is just to get the right overall ratio that works best for you.
Cheers for that fellas. Is the acceleration noticeably different? And how much does it lower the top end speed? Where can i get the short Pazzo levers from? Sorry to go on a bit, but there is one more thing. When i switch the ignition on and it's been through its checks and startup, there is a squeak about 2-3 secs after? A bloke with a Daytona at the track day yesterday said it could be something to do with the power valve sticking? Could this be the case? Cheers again!
Yep, that's the exup valve...common issue, you'll need to lube the cables for it, etc.....or just take it out completely. -1+1 gearing will knock about 7-8% off your top speed...but it will also quicken your acceleration by a similar figure...it's VERY noticeable, and in a good way.
-1 +1 covered some people find it makes the bike a bit twitchy at low speed but, thats personal preferance. I like it. What brand of Chain and sprockets is up to you but, most people go for either a Renthal Chain and Renthal sprockets or a Tsubaki Chain and Renthal sprockets. I think Tsubaki chains are better, and i went for Talon sprockets. It lowers the top end by about 10mph ish, acceleration is noticibly faster. If you going to do a lot of track work then the standard size folding leavers would be the better choice. Arrow slip on - Yes you need a remap. Go to dealer (charge £10-15) or find someone with a laptop and TuneECU to do it for you. Glad your enjoying the bike. Prepair to be poor though now you have started doing track days. Its a slippery slope to addiction Oh, the squeak. Yes they sounds like the exup valve sticking. Get down there with some WD40 and free it off. Just follow your exhaust from the headers down towards the rear of the bike and you will see where the cables go to the to operate the valve.
WD-40 is okay for freeing thing's off but is not a long term lubricant, problem is the exhaust gets so hot there that almost anything you put on there will burn off the first time you give it any stick unless it's specifically for high temperatures... I would be tempted (if my bike had either of these things) to get the cat and exup cut out then a rolling road remap once you've got your end can, much less future hassle and more power (and noise) :twisted:
You could always by my sweet sounding Akra can that's for sale. I also have a new compatible dongle so you Can upload the correct map ( I have this too)
<a class="postlink" href="https://www.675.cc/675/viewtopic.php?f=85&t=10929&hilit=cat+removal+remap">https://www.675.cc/675/viewtopic.php?f=8 ... oval+remap</a> There you go, the cat and exup are part of the headers.
I would definitely read the advice regarding sprockets. I haven't done it on my 675 but have done on a Kawasaki 636 and R6 and loved it. If you get an aftermarket slip on, you can download TuneECU which DOES make a difference even if it seems like it won't. I couldn't believe the different it made when I downloaded the map for it, it's the first time I've ever done so for any performance pipe.
They are all good mods but if you are using it as a track weapon and road bike, I think crash protection must be your first step if you don't have any. GB racing is the place to go used by the top race teams so must be good, engine covers and crash bungs they now do race and road crash bungs.
1050 throttle mod. Cheap as chips and worthwhile. WOT without changing hand position halfway through.
It's already got crash bungs on it. Might look into the other crash protection though! What is the 1050 throttle mod?
Not really looking at much track action tbh! Only did one yesterday cos I won it through Bennetts ultimate track day!
