I'm hoping there's some of you track guys out there who've painted fibreglass with success. For a spring project i've got a nice little tail unit and i've never painted GRP before. (I'll be using rattle cans) The gelcoat isn't bad although there are a few lumps and bumps. I was thinking of rubbing it down with 400 grit, filling a few places where necessary then giving it a couple of coats of 1k epoxy primer (to seal any gelcoat gaps) before using a couple of coats of high build rubbing down between before the top coats. Anyone, does this sound as though it will work ok? Any advice gratefully received. Mike
I've not painted fiberglass for many years now, but fwiw back when that was something I did my approach was pretty much exactly as you describe above.
I have been meaning to convert one of my race seat units to road. Exactly the same type as this, how did you go about mounting the rear light? Intrigued to see the finished result
Aha! It was quite tricky... had to copy the shape from the existing cowl. Getting the profile even was the hardest bit. I drew it on and used a dremel with a cutting wheel to carefully remove the excess. Then used 360 grit wet and dry on the edges. In the end it worked out quite well although nervous cutting it though! The 2 tabs on the std rear light fit under the edge and once bolted down is quite secure. Hope that helps.
If your going to primer then p320 grit will be fine, you'll be there all day with p400. If your going to use 1k primer over epoxy primer try it on a rest piece first, it may well be fine as long as the epoxy is properly dry. I've never put 1k primer over epoxy so can't give a definate answer. Any 2k primer is fine, apart from a 2k polyester spray filler.
Great useful info- thanks. It’s rubbed down now and you’re right, the 400 didn’t quite cut it. Used 280 in the end- looking good. I’ll do the test on the bit of fibreglass I cut out for the rear light- good advice, cheers
FYI the forum is fortunate that Buzz675 shares with us his extensive professional experience in this field..
Sorry, I'm maybe outdated on that..? -I perhaps recall that you moved on into a different field, but tbh I'd forgotten. Either way, you've probably forgotten more about refinishing than the rest of us will ever need to know.
Still in the automotive industry but now I'm working for a paint and materials supplier as their technical rep, doing training and paint scheme installations amongst many other things. Hope your well mate.
Oddly enough I am a sales consultant for a spray booth manufacturer, if you ever need a paint mixing room let me know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've just rattle canned this for the trackbike. Needs a bit more cutting back but it's fine for a DIY job on a track bike.
I've just rattle canned this for the trackbike. Needs a bit more cutting back but it's fine for a DIY job on a track bike. View attachment 53444
That looks really good Is that fibreglass? What procedure did you use? I’ve now fully primed my solo tailpiece and am waiting for warmer days for top coat.
What I've learned is that you need to find that sweet spot between a good wet coat and getting runs! If you waft it on too lightly you get a terrible finish. Start with a light tack coat and then make each coat thereafter progressively 'wetter' and thicker. Do not rub your base coat back (if you've got an orange peel finish the clear coat will hide it. Apply your clear coat 45 mins after your last base coat so it adheres to it properly and, as with the base coats, build progressively wetter clear coat layers (I aim for minimum of 5 coats with 10 mins wait in between). Leave it for at least 24 hours and then get to work with wet and dry. Start at 1500 and move to 2000, 2500 and then a cutting compound for a final polish
