I had a bolt snap on me when I need to get the forks serviced, luckily I know a lot off mechanics and got off them to weld a nut on to the bolt where it snapped off from and he managed to get it out. I ended getting a replacement bolt from fowlers Hope this helps as i about cried when it happened to me Sent from my iPhone using 675.cc
We've all been there What I actually mean, is I've done it,,,,, loads of times. (Very old dog, lack of remaining learning neurons). Did you manage to remove the broken stud.? Last time I did it I found that there was a lot of thread protruding from the other side (towards the wheel) and all I had to do was grip that with some molegrips & un-thread it from the inner edge. Fwiw, super glue would have done a pretty adequate job of coping with such a crack as that imo. I'm sure I will have an available spare shouldered bolt mate (as long as it's the same spec' as the 1st Generation). Not too sure how the Royal Snails would cope with delivering at the moment though. I'm down near the Humber river, so if your travels take you from sunny Garforth on the road to Hell Hull give me a heads-up.
Cheers Dude Don't travel down Hull if ever so postal service would be required. I can measure the bolt so you can compare and see if it will work. Not in much of a hurry as not planning on riding till spring - will look to see if I can repair the original one, was thinking of covering it with carbon fibre effect vinyl to help hide the crack but not sure if it would look too silly
Lol, I certainly wouldn't hold that against you dude. Message me the dimensions at some stage. Fwiw I only have one front mudguard that isn't cracked there (and that's because it's my never fitted spare). The superglued ones with cracks don't look too unsightly imo, although obviously in white it may be more visible. At least your damage doesn't include the mounting points.
Got the measurements now... Looks to be M6 20mm length Has a none thread length of around 4mm then 10mm of thread
Hold on - read my writing wrong.... M6 thread Head looks to be a T40 dome (which is around 12mm in diameter) Around 20mm in length (minus the dome) It has a none threaded bit which is 4mm deep and around 10mm in diameter Hope the above makes sense and you can help!!
Many thanks to @StMarks, I have all 4 bolts now. Bought a front paddock stand from Demon Tweeks and have to say good value for the money - works a treat: Got the wheel off today and using mole grips the bugger won't budge (the grips just twist around) - I have sprayed penetrating oil over the last few weeks) Don't really want to crack the welder out - any suggestions? Was thinking about cutting a slit in the top thats protruding and trying a flat screwdriver or something along those lines?
Fwiw based on my experiences of tackling seized bolts, I suggest you do NOT cut a slot in the stub. That will substantially reduce the structural integrity of the protruding portion, and there is a very good probability that the slotted sections will simply break off. Then you will be even more of a pickle. Furthermore there is not going to be as much purchase from a screwdriver in a slot as a molegrip on the circumference imho. Did you try rotating it in both directions.? - I'm wondering if you were trying to undo it inwards (logical, I would) then perhaps the force that was sufficient to snap the bolt also bent the outside slightly. Therefore as you started to draw it into the fork thread it would perhaps bind fast, not being any longer the straight shaft necessary to travel that distance.? If that is the case, then threading the stub inwards (counter-intuitive) until you could get your molegrips to purchase on the broken end may be an approach?? Alternatively localised heat is the popular approach (blow lamp direct onto the protruding stud, wait a short time allowing it to transfer it's heat into the alloy thread (you want the hole expanded from the heat, rather than the stud) I personally would not want to do that, because of any perceived risk of damage to the fork internals, finish etc... Good luck, and keep us posted on progress please. P.S. That under fork stand looks very similar to the one I have. Much better performance than I expected for the price I paid.
Thanks for your sage words. Yes, tried to rotate both directions and no movement at all, just the mole grips moving. I have drilled out stuck bolts before and welded a nut on also but loathed to do this (was working on an old VW camper van so wasn't too worried). Will wait on further ideas while I have a think also. Cheers
Have you given it a good soaking in WD40? Give it a few good sprays and leave it over night.Give the protruding bolt/thread an few sharp smacks on the head with a hammer and then get your biggest mole grips on it. And indeed try moving back and forth as if you’re tapping a thread when drawing it out. I tend to leave drilling out as a last resort myself. Good luck.
Thanks Nik - used Plus Gas penetrating fluid and has been liberally soaked. I have hit it a good few times also but no movement (yes, tried forward and backward to no avail) Will keep on trying - ordered a set of stud removal bits if it still doesn't want to budge
Sounds like I underestimated you there and that you have a mofo on your hands. Have you tried swearing loudly and perhaps trying to intimidate it by brandishing a bigger hammer??
