675.cc • Triumph 675 Forum

Headers - stud

Discussion in 'Maintenance & Tweaks' started by triumph1985, Mar 2, 2021.

  1. triumph1985

    triumph1985

    Thread Starter

    675
    12
    18
    Location: Nottingham
    After much swearing managed to get my headers of (getting them decatted). After all the struggling doing it without removing the rad, one of the studs snapped off in the block .

    It's the middle bottom one. Question is, can I get away with reattaching the headers with just the 5 remaining studs/nuts? Or will it need to be drilled out?

    Thanks

    Sent from my SM-G973F using 675.cc mobile app
     
  2. cpatel89

    cpatel89

    279
    25
    28
    Location: Leicester
    You can leave it off but in my personal opinion it wouldn’t be advisable as it could potentially leave a gap between the headers and the gasket causing leaks, I had a similar issue but mine was more on the lines off I striped the threads and had to rethread both off the middle studs.

    It might be a ball ache now to drill out the stud but in the long run it would be the best option


    Sent from my iPhone using 675.cc
     
  3. Robert

    Robert

    70
    3
    8
    Location: Ireland
    I feel your pain. Same one snapped on me. Bottom middle. The nut did look like something that had been in a cave for a few thousand years !

    Last one too. Typical. All others came out with not too much issue.

    I’ve the rad off now. Just waiting to get the wheel off and get drilling the stud out.

    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. triumph1985

    triumph1985

    Thread Starter

    675
    12
    18
    Location: Nottingham
    Hi mate. Have you managed anymore progress on removing the snapped off stud? I'm about to remove the radiator to have a go at drilling mine out. To say I'm not looking forward to it is an understatement!

    Sent from my SM-G973F using 675.cc mobile app
     
  5. Robert

    Robert

    70
    3
    8
    Location: Ireland
    It went about as bad as it could.

    Drilled out the stud ok but unfortunately the extractor bit broke off within the drilled out hollow. So now waiting for some harder burrs to try and get out the extractor and try again.

    This stud is clearly well in there !

    Next attempt will be with a left had drill bit and see if it catches

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. triumph1985

    triumph1985

    Thread Starter

    675
    12
    18
    Location: Nottingham
    Ahh mate sounds like a nightmare . I finally attacked mine this afternoon and it went OK. Managed to drill it out just gradually building up the size of the bit. Then re tapped it. Although that wasn't straight forward. Because of clearance issues basically had to use an adjustable spanner to turn the tap! But got there in the end. 20210314_183023.jpeg 20210314_174545.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G973F using 675.cc mobile app
     
  7. Robert

    Robert

    70
    3
    8
    Location: Ireland
    I was so cross at myself, like yourself I started small and tried to free the stud with the smallest extractor just to see if it would move. It did seem to move then immediately snap!

    Ive got my carbide burrs ready to attack it tonight and see if I have any better luck.

    That looks like a clean job on yours, what was your process as that could be my next step? Need all your equipment list too ha! Really would like to avoid having to drop the engine and take it to a pro!

    Rob
     
  8. triumph1985

    triumph1985

    Thread Starter

    675
    12
    18
    Location: Nottingham
    Well I started by putting a grove into the top of the snapped off stud, with a view to try and remove it with a screwdriver but that didn't work.

    I then used the smallest hss bit I had and went straight down the middle of the stud (marked the depth on the bit with tape). Another tip I left my other studs in so I could put my eye down and make sure I was going in at the right angle if that makes sense?

    Once the pilot hole was done went up to a 4mm hss, same again marking the depth with tape. Followed that with a 6mm then finished on a 7mm. Just took my time with the drill on a slow speed.

    You need a m8 x 1.25 tap. The problem is you can't get much clearance to use the tap wrench. I could only manage a 1/4 turn if that before I had to take the wrench off and reattach it. In the end I just used an adjustable spanner to turn the tap into the hole.

    Just take your time and I'm sure you'll manage it. The main thing when drilling is making sure it doesn't 'wander' and go into the block.
    Sent from my SM-G973F using 675.cc mobile app
     
    • Informative Informative x 1

Share This Page

Loading...
  1. By using this website you agree to our Cookies usage. We and our partners operate globally and use cookies, including for analytics, personalisation, ads and Newsletters:
    Dismiss Notice