Hi guys, I baught some R1-M callipers for my 2010 Daytona 675 and need some advice please... I need to fit 2.5mm spacers but as far as I can see the dowels on the R1-M is part of the casting and can’t be removed. I know previous models of R1’s you could remove the caliper dowels but the later model R1 seems to be different. I even had a look a R1 parts diagrams and that confirms the above. Do I grind the off the caliper dowels and fit 2.5mm spacer with flat bottom and a collar on the other side? Or do I drill the R1 caliper dowels out and fit a 2.5mm spacer with a collar on each side (please see picture attached) Or is there any other way to go about this? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Tricky one mate, we have a mill at work so I would be inclined to mill the the calipers flat I definitely wouldn’t attempt to drill out the caliper to create a recess I had m4’s on my last bike and I had a spacer that had a raised insert edge on both sides Saying that though I don’t think the black calipers and 09-12 forks have an insert on either and are just flat to flat. I haven’t really answered your question lol It depends on how good a fit the bolts are on the calipers i guess.
Haha, no worries! I can confirm the black Nissan brake calipers and the forks both have recess as it’s held together by a removable dowel. At the moment I’m also thinking milling the caliper side flat and using a spacer that is flat on the one side with a dowel going into the forks. (Pic attached) From research I’ve found that R6 caliper bots should be spot on with the 2.5mm spacer. Thanks for your input Bigmac, appreciate it!
Ah yes now you say I remember pulling the insert out of the fork when I fitted the brembos. It’s a removable insert on the fork leg 09-12 and the gold calipers 06-08 have the raised lip on the caliper but no insert in the fork leg. Ideally you would want a raised lip on both sides but as long as the bolt is a real good fit in the caliper id be happy with the way you are going. I used a tiny smear of silicone on the spacer to keep them on the calipers when when swapping out wheels etc I would make sure with yours that every time I do the bolts up I’d pull the front lever or cable tie it so you know the are perfectly in line before tightening.
Definitely, will do! Thanks Bigmac!! From searching the forum I know this particular Mod has been done before with the R1M calipers by a member ( -LG- ),not sure if his still active on here though. Just wish I knew how he went about it!
I'm currently about to do the same. Got the calipers, removed the dowels/inserts out of the forklegs and now waiting to get the spacers done. I hope this will improve braking, at least there will lots more of pads/brands to choose from.
Hi Linool81, Have you got the same calipers? If so...How did you remove the dowels from the calipers??
2015 R1 calipers. Gonna leave the dowels in the caliper and put a drilled up washer as spacer. So a small part of the dowel will still work as guidance into the forkleg. Thats my plan anyway
Don't want to drag this off topic but just wondering why some manufacturers use a positive location on the calipers like this dowel whilst brembo at least on my two bikes just mounts the calipers face-to-face and relies on the bolts for location? I usually apply the front brake before I fully tighten the bolts to align the calipers better, not sure if it's necessary or not?
The standard brakes on the Daytona are more than enough really but they do suffer from drag pretty bad
Not sure, above my pay grade I’m afraid! Could be to make the alignment process easier.. As for applying the brakes before tightening the bolts...I do this on all my bikes(dowels or no dowels) to make 100% sure they are aligned.
Definitely no problem with the stopping power of the standard Nissan calipers! But like Bigmac said, their downfall is the brake drag! That’s my reason for changing them!
I've always found the brembo m4's on both my bikes really "draggy" no matter how clean I keep them and well aligned.